Distractions

This section is devoted to all those NON radio projects that distracted Don from his hobby....  ;-) 
(text follows these pics)

Zone Valve Manifold

All copper with unions to make valve replacement easy.

Zone Valves

with useless plastic manifold, unserviceable

Manifold and zone valves

ready to install

A pit in front border

ready for the zone valve box.... note black water feed pipe and white storm drain pipe

Zone Valve Box

with feed pipe, manifold and three zone valves. Zone 1 on left, 2 in middle, 3 on right

Zone Valve Box

with zone 1 and 2 piping to front yard. Zone 3 will be added, in Trench 5a,b,c going down south side of house and part of rear lawn.

Trench 1 & 2

Trench 1 cuts off to the right across top of lawn, to driveway area. Trench 2 follows south lawn edge.

Trench 2

front south trench

Trench 3

on south side of driveway

Trench 4

on north side of driveway, note black feed pipe sticking out of "trench" through driveway... made by removing the 2x6 slab spacer

At the well head

white pipe at left is from well head. Black pipes are distribution to yard and also the north and south ends of house. Lots of plumbing to be done here.

Turf Truck

arrived 7 AM 8jun05

Forklift Dismount

off rear of trailer

Turf Unload

too easy

Turf on drive

now the easy work starts! All the prep was the hard part.

Half done lawn

but letting that pallet load of rolled turf sit for an extra day caused yellowing and a slower "take" once it was down.

Ross & Don

picnic on island, June05

Well Manifold 2

L to R: 2" plastic pipe to well head. copper feed to rear of lot. copper feed to south front. pottable water from house c/w valve and check valve. copper feed to north of lot. shut-off valve to pump. pump. pressure tank

Well Manifold 3

19jun05 side view. potable water can now go to auto sprinkler system in front yard. Next is to hook up well pump so we use well water on our lawns. Done by month end.

Wellhead

checking for a leak in the white PVC pipe. There was none.

Inside The Well Chamber

White pipe should NOT drop down as it does here. Fix it by hammering well pipe 7" down and reconnect with pipe running level.

Test

Determining that air leak is caused by setting well pipe too shallow.

Adding Extension

Five feet to pound down with sledge hammer.

4 hours later

As far as I can go before doing something to transfer hammering point higher up.

Rock Drill Rod

Wooden holder keeps drill rod aligned on top of pipe. Pound here.

2" Pipe Couplings

Smaller regular coupling on left was used to connect the five foot extension. It leaked after the above hammering. We now lift pipe up, replace with heavier "hammering coupling" on right.

Now Lift

Damaged coupling means pull it up, repair threads and replace coupling. Made a 16 foot, double 2x10 lifting beam. Hydraulic jack is at right end, where well pipe is, also.

Chain

...getting a grip on the pipe... 18july05

Half Way Up

Damaged extension is now half way out of the ground. Note left hand on handle of hydraulic car jack.

Finally Lifted

Damaged coupling and extension ready for replacement. Note the small inappropriate coupling.

Don's Pipe Yoga

Proper hammering coupling installed with big wrenches to get it TIGHT. Used 2-part epoxy with 8 hour open time on threads so it sets and seals after pounding down.

Tripod Assembly

Done in two stages. Next stage I use a ladder to get up and spike together the third leg and add pulley and rigging.

Tripod Done

Now add the new pipe extension and the 100 pound steel well pipe pounder.

All Set

New five foot extension with cheaper "protective" coupling at top and pounder above coupling.

Looking Up

Notice the finger blisters!

Well Head Almost There

Next step attach the "T" and check valve then couple to the PVC pipe leading to pump.

C'est Fini

21july05 closed up the well head in the early morning.. and off to Magna Bay on Shuswap Lake.

Engine No Head

26dec2005. Note milky mix of antifreeze and oil on 3 piston.

Cylinder Head

Top view.

Cylinder Head

Bottom view. Crack beside #3 intake valve can't be seen in this photo.

Engine Parts

On work bench.

Engine parts

A closer look. See notes below.

Hitachi SL2000 Print Engine

March2006, am currently working on this repair job

Roof Repairs-1

Leaky after 18 years. 12 hours to replace rotten decking & several bad shingles

Roof Repairs-2

ain't purdy but will keep out rain water til next year's new roof

RegsReno-1

Back of Reg's house

RegsReno-2

Siding Off

Notice flying critters

RegsReno-3

Yes those are honey bees in the mansard roof above my head. No stings happened, so far.

RegsReno-4

Inside wall before.

RegsReno-5

Window In, Day Two

RegsReno-6

Day Two. Olivia enjoying the view.

RegsReno-7

Day Three. Recessed book nook replaces old small window.

RegsReno-8

Day four. First mud coat, sanded

RegsReno-9

Day five. Siding back on.

Barb's Reno 1

Replacing rotten decking at Barb's Shuswap Lake home.

Barb's Reno 2

The demolition tools

Barb's Reno 3

Rot where wood was.

Barb's Reno 4

Finito.... and now for a coffee at a balcony table with a view of the lake. (see table/chairs in Small Wood Radios - Brand & Millen DR-102U)

Coffee Break

Shuswap Lake, early October

Laundry-1

Early November06. Upstairs toilet leak ruined laundry room gyproc ceiling. So started our remodeling. Dryer vent relocated.

Laundry-2

Washer, dryer, wash tub wall opened up, cut up. From this point re-construction begins.

Laundry-3

Redo tin pipe on dryer vent so it fits 4 inch hole from hole saw. Notice seam is soldered now and pipe is tapered.

Laundry-4

New drain to new washer box. Hot and cold water lines in. Dryer power box in. Messing with bottom of heat duct to get wash tub drain in.

Laundry-5

Decided to raise duct and heat vent. Opened up other side of laundry room wall for access.

Laundry-6

Finicky job getting gyproc cut so it simply flips upside down and voila.... heat vent is 8 inches higher after doing the tin work.

Laundry-7

... now sink drain is all in wall, so washer can go tight to wall.

Laundry-8

lower left dryer duct sticks out of wall by 1/2"... tappered firring strips added so gyproc can cover. Just shower P-Trap to raise 2" to allow higher ceiling.

Laundry-9

mechanical all done.

Laundry-10

other side sealed up.

Laundry-11

boarded, mudded, painted. Next is T-Bar ceiling, baseboards, window trim, cupboards.

Laundry-12

new cupboards sans handles

Laundry-13

the new sink stand and sink 10dec06

ControllerJob-1

I was given this and asked to make 6 more. It is a temperature controller.

ControllerJob-2

yellow wire goes to a thermocouple. Heating device plugs into back.

ControllerJob-3

Little black box is controller, programmed from front and has display.

ControllerJob-4

Custom made fiberglass reinforced black stand-off rings for controller's better fit in shallow box.

ControllerJob-5

Stand-off rings slip onto controller from the rear.

ControllerJob-6

Six new controllers. Two boxes with two. Two boxes with one.

ControllerJob-7

The boxes with two are 110vac outputs. Boxes with one are 220vac outputs.

ControllerJob-8

Symetry in design.... for future. Price?.... Not cheap. Perfect?.... close. Fun?... yes. Application?.... ;-)

Office Trash

180 pounds in 5 bags. Accumulated bookkeeping and client papers since 1989. Took 5 days of sifting and tossing out, to fill these bags in January '07.

Attic 1

Start of 80' attic catwalk. Looking West from ceiling trap door.

Attic 2

Half way along the "railway" track. West gable end in the distance.

Attic 3

2 by 8 reinforcing added under truss' 2 by 4 top stringer.

Attic 4

Same on the right. Note 2 by 6 cat walk decking.

Attic 5

All 2x8's in place. Glued and screwed to inside of OSB sheathing.

Attic 6

Now add 3/4" plywood. Glued and screwed

Attic 7

Reinforcing finished at top.

Attic 8

...and down the sides. Ready to start gable work outside.

Gable

Day 1.... 21mar07. 18 days of rain off and on. Gable as it was since 1987.

Gable

Day 1. Starting with the scaffold.

Gable

Day 2. 22mar. Finish bracing & decking scaffold. (now for the rotten barge boards)

Gable

Day 2. Sheet metal removed exposing rotten barge board.

Gable

Day 2. Removing the barge boards.... and two trips for lumber today.

Gable

Day 3. Rain all day. Loosen left eave trough. Remove right trough, aluminum soffit covers and two 2x4 facia rafters

Gable

Day 3 & 4. Work indoors: 4" of rain in last 12 hours. Build "dump truck box & bed.

Gable

Day 4. 24mar. 21 days of rain. Remove gutter for use at front of house.

Gable

Day 4. Gutter suspended from eye bolts using twine and counter-weights.

Gable

Day 4. Weight and counter-weight meet half way. With gutters gone we now can start gable extension work.

Gable

Day 4. Today's 4 inches of rain too much for old roof. Plastic stopped leak.

Gable

Day 5. 25mar. The focus of today's effort was to install this 4x4 and extend the 2x4 facia behind it.

Gable

Day 5. Upshot of 4x4. Also the "dump truck" on the car's roof rack. Tomorrow the right side of roof is stripped 5 feet back.

Gable

Day 5. "Dump truck" is 1/4 filled with shingles.

Gable

Day 6. 26mar07. Last of shingles stripped off. Ready for trip to dump.

Gable

Day 6. Ready to unload. Note the stupidly concieved "safety" bars making an easy job hard. Boneheads.

Gable

Day 6. Unload :-)

Gable

Day6. With help from my swamper, Herbert.

Gable

Day 6. End of the day.Two more supports installed. Toughest part is done.

Gable

Day 6. Finished with the dump truck.

Gable

Day 7. 27mar07. Today's challenge, install all the cantilevers.

Gable

Day 7. ... the wisdom of prebuilding the "catwalk" is evident.

Gable

Day 7. Quad erat demonstrandum. Next.... add the facias and new sheathing.

Gable

Day 8. 28mar07. Left side decked and tar papered. Now the platform becomes roof decking.

Gable

Day 8. Right side partly decked.

Gable

This is about as romantic as this job gets.

Gable

Day 9. 29mar07. The last of the sheathing. Slow day only 4 hours on job.

Gable

Day 10. 30mar07. Barge boards on. Carpentry done. 30 pound felt on, covered in plastic. Ready for new shingles.

Gable

Day 11. 1apr07. Barge boards have sheet metal covers. Also attached midline supports for soffit covers.

Gable

Days 12+13. 2,3apr07. Cutting aluminum soffit covers.

Gable

Day 12,13. Installing aluminum soffit covers. Taking down scaffold.

Gable

Day 13. Almost done with 32" overhang.

3apr07 Day 13. Almost finished the gable overhang project. Overhang increased from 11" to 32".

1apr07 Day 11. Coffee klatch with Jack and Rene. The barge boards are covered with grey sheet metal. Center supports for the 32 inch wide soffit covers are in place. Ready for soffit covers next.

26mar07    Day 6    Stripped shingles from right side of roof. Took shingles to dump. Installed two more cantilevered 4x4 supports. Got to admit, the dump facility is stupidly set up with ridiculous guard rails that just get in the way. Stupid. It took some ingenuity to work around them.

25mar07    Day5    Installed hauling box on car's roof rack.  Had coffee klatch with Jack and Rene. Finished lowering, washing and cutting up the long gutter. Stripped shingles off left side of roof. Installed the hardest 4x4 cantilever, the one on the end.

24mar07   Day4.    "Dump truck" hauling box built. Long gutter down. Leaky roof covered with heavy plastic. Now ready to start gable extension.

23mar07   Day 3.  With most of the rotten wood removed gable overhang now ready for shingle and decking removal just to 4 feet behind gable face. This allows insertion of new 4x4 overhang supports and a recovering. Open only one side at a time to minimize risk of rain entering attic.

21mar07   Day 1. Started work on exterior front gable end after completing the gable end-truss reinforcement in the attic. March/April are wet months so opening up the gable end of a roof to do work that extends the roof overhang on the gable end means getting several things done prior to opening the roof. They are:

    1. Heavy reinforcement of the left and right rafters of the gable end truss.... but first build a "cat-walk" above the attic insulation, from the ceiling trap door in the east end of the gable through to the west wall of the gable end.

    2. Build a scaffold to get safe access to the roof line at the gable.

    3. Build a hauling box "dump truck" for the car roof rack.... the better to haul shingles to the dump. Easy off loading required.

    4. Remove continuous aluminum gutters both of which will be too short. The longer of which will be cut up for replacement of damaged front gutter. This preserves the attractive older gutter profile on the front. Today's gutter installers don't make this profile any more. 


18jan07    tossed out papers accumulated since 1988 or so. This job distracted me for five full days of sorting and sifting.

3jan07    finished controller project. These are to be used in equipment in an ore refining process. Next is working with a new client to design/build a relational database system for their business. I will use the brand new Cnawlece database kernel.  Google "cnawlece" for more.

26dec06    decided to do gyproc returns on the windows... gets rid of the wood. Looks cleaner, modern. Just new taller baseboards to do, after we replace the flooring in the laundry room and that area of the house. In spring.

10dec06    cupboards and new sink done. Just baseboards, window trim, new floor and paint touch-up to go.

28nov06    just have cupboards, baseboards, window trim to go.

21nov06    been two weeks remodeling our laundry room. Got two more weeks to go, in between regular work, to get this done. Whole project started when upstairs toilet seal leak ruined gyproc ceiling downstairs in laundry room.  FEATURES: fix leaky toilet seal; replace gyproc ceiling with T-Bar ceiling installed 3 inches higher than old ceiling; upgrade copper water pipe from water tank to shower with 3/4 inch pipe to fix temperature changes in shower if someone turns on a water tap elsewhere; add hydraulic shock absorbers to eliminate the water hammering that occurs when the washer's water solenoid valves snap closed; replace Fat Albert ceiling light with light box built into T-Bar; relocate all washer and dryer plumbing and electrical so machines can sit tight to wall, gain 5 inches of floor space; replace crude, "apple box" cupboards with something nice; replace flooring; new paint; new window trim and baseboards; install a fish in the wall (a fish is just light twine, in this case) for the future pull-through of special cable for satellite TV.

16-23aug06    at Barb's home on Shuswap Lake. Relaxed and pottered at repairing a bit of rotten decking. See pix above.

1aug06  started reno on Reg's house. Putting in a new bedroom window. Day 1 siding off and fill nail holes in it. Day 2 tear off gyproc, insulation, move studding, add header, frame out rest of rough opening for window 95" by 47", cut opening, install window, clean up. Day 3 finish back framing, install insulation, remove small window, cover hole with sheathing, install gyproc "board" and tape it, clean up. Day 4 strip wall paper from original gyproc, remove wallpaper backing and glue, finish "boarding" including steel J-bead and corner bead, mud the wall, clean up. Day 5 spend four hours putting on siding and filling cracks.

22jul06  spent 12 hours repairing leaky roof above kitchen window

18jul06 looks like my Hitachi SL2000 print engine won't ever print again. No parts available. After spending 26 grand U$, I feel ripped off by Hitachi. Great Machine. LOUSY PARTS SERVICE. I don't care if it is 15 years old. I expect parts somewhere in the world and I can't get a damned thing for help from the Hitachi website. No amount of Googling helps find parts. Its like the SL-2000 never existed. Great job Hitachi-guys!  (not)...

9mar06 with help from the secondary vendor, LaserMaster, I am overhauling and repairing my circa 1990 typesetter. Tough to do without the service manual and some training but I will get the job done....

3jan06 turns out the cylinder head isn't cracked. A magnaflux test proved that.  Just the cylinder head gasket was damaged and caused the leakage of coolant into the number 2 and 3 cylinders. Got a refund on the wrong cylinder head that came in from Edmonton.  Reassembled engine top end with new cylinder head gasket and new head bolts, of course. $$$

1jan06 Not quite done with the car. Seems the vendor gave me the wrong replacement cylinder head. Have to wait till Tuesday the 3rd to re-order. Meanwhile been cataloguing the 15 old radios I acquired over this past Fall. Will post some pictures and details soon as I get clear of car repairs and the last of a small renovation job I am doing for a friend.

26dec05 You see pictures of the cylinder head gasket replacement work I did.... instead of fixin' radios......  should be done this task by New Year's.

oct-nov05 I made three carpentry trips to Mayne Island. On return from second trip the engine overheated in one of our freeway's famous "stop, inch along and crawl" episodes. The overheating weakened the cylinder head gasket which eventually broke down and leaked several weeks later in December....

5aug05 The past week has had me washing down Jack and Rene Carradice's home, garden shed and creek bridge in preparation for painting which I start tomorrow and expect to carry on for at least a week. The big airless sprayer will make short work of some of it and its brush and roller for the rest. Oh well.  Also got a call to repair break and enter damage at a friend's business. The perp smashed three glass blocks in glass block walls adjacent to doors so as to reach in and unlock them. Ten hours work today got the glass blocks replaced and one of two door frames repaired using steam to raise wood crushed by a jimmy bar then burn-in sticks to do final filling and blending.

21-31july05 We were away on holiday at Magna Bay on Shuswap Lake in central BC. Relaxing, feeding ducks and buying a Weller 8250 soldering gun for five bucks from Al Hein at his garage sale at his home in Ainsworth BC. Thanks Al. (used it mar06 on heavy solder on chassis)

20july05 Now I can cover up the well chamber in the back yard. Then finish the rest of the water distribution manifold's copper plumbing. Do the 220 VAC pump motor wiring. Tidy up the pump and pressure tank plumbing. Set the air pressure inside the pressure tank. Adjust the cut-in and cut-out pressure settings on the motor's control switch. And I am then done.  Ready to pursue the next priority task. Enjoy the pictures.

20july05  Finally got well pipe lifted up today, after spending several hours a day for the past three days! Total lift was 8 feet. First day I only lifted 12". Second day, yesterday, I lifted 18". Today the gravel finally released most of its grip on the pipe and I lifted the last 5 feet by noon. . As the pictures below show, I managed to build the tripod, install the new coupling and extension, pound it all back down the hole and hook it up to the pump by 7:30 pm.  At this point, midnight I will go out and check to see if the well holds its prime..... and it does!  This means diagnoses of the leaking coupling was accurate and the grueling task of pulling up the well pipe was worth it.       .......my wife Heidi asks "so why do you pound the pipe down only to arduously pull it up.... so you can pound it back down again?"   ....if I had the answer to that before I started, I guess I wouldn't have had to go through this exercise several times.  So we have Rule ONE: hire a pro. Rule TWO: if not be sure to use a hammering coupling with good pipe thread sealant.

18july05 Plumbing in the well's pump and pressure tank could have been an easy task but I have been at it for a week or more. Why?  It took a lot of testing to determine that I did not sink the well's sand point deep enough. (a sand point is a special screened pipe attached to the bottom of the well pipe --- water enters the well pipe through this screen)   The task of fixing this problem has not been easy. First, remove the lawn above the well chamber in the back yard. Second, dig and expose and remove the concrete plank cover. Third, test again to make certain that the water table is drawing down sufficiently whilst pumping that air is entering the top part of the sand point.  Fourth, have a 5 foot extension pipe made; attach it to the top of the well pipe and then spend 5 hours with a sledge hammer pounding the whole pipe column down exactly 5 feet. Fifth, Discover that even with a protective collar in place  I have almost completely destroyed the threads at the top of the new pipe. But not quite and I am able to reconnect the pump and after a "proving" process to get the mud out of the sand point I actually got water sufficient to run the lawn sprinklers at 40 pounds per square inch pressure.  Sixth, but one needs to shut of the pump and wait an hour or so then see if the well "keeps its prime".... and my well didn't. Seventh, a determination is made that the hammering also damaged the airtight seal of the inappropriately small coupling used to join the original 20 foot well pipe to the new 5 foot pipe..... and this means lifting the well pipe and sand point assembly 8 feet back up out of the ground to allow rejoining the pipes with a new "hammering coupling", one specially designed to withstand pounding in a well. Pulling the pipe up is SLOW going.

14july05 Mounting the computer control for the zone valves done.... took most of a day's work to run wires under kitchen crawl space and route them into the car garage to the wall location Heidi chose for the controller. Now it looks neat. No visible wiring.

7july05 took off on canoe expedition with my pal Ross. See picture (above) of us picnicking on an island on Nicomen Slough (river). This isn't exactly a distraction..... :-)

4may05 for next 3 months most of my spare time has gone into excavating our weedy, humped-up front lawn and replacing it with 5" of sandy base soil, adding a sprinkler system, then turfing the new dead-flat front lawn area. Then I added the Zone 3 piping and sprinklers to the south side of the house and part of the back yard.

Edited June 30, 2008 By: Gord Routley - Don's HostMaster, Guru & Friend!